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Monthly Restaurant
Review |
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Orsinis Grill #1 in
Freshesness |
Saturday night and Orsini's was
buzzing. Not an empty table in sight. Wednesday night was packed with
guests and Thursday looked like Saturday all over again. That's right, I
went to this incredible restaurant three times in one week. Rarely would I
want to go to the same restaurant that often in such a short time span,
but all will be revealed. On entering and seeing a mix of white and
burgundy gingham tablecloths, plenty of dark wood, a few candles and a
small counter that you could sit at
well, you could be forgiven for
thinking that the food was going to be just as modest and unassuming. But
once you taste any of chef and proprietor Jim Horn's sublime creations,
you'll discover what I did and what many people are discovering as well;
this is TRULY inspired gourmet cuisine; real Italian food at its best! And
at a price that you won't believe! This style of culinary art is created
by a man who uses ingredients much the same way an artist would, only for
a much different palate. Jim has a deep understanding of flavors and knows
how to combine them. "It's just like eatin' at home!" is the motto here,
but few of us could create this tango of simplicity and sophistication.
Jim has been involved in the food industry all his life and genuinely
believes that cooking is an art. "Cooks are born, not learned. You either
have it or you don't. I grew up in an Italian neighborhood. When the guys
would yell, 'Eh Jimmy, whataya doin'?' I would yell back, 'Eh, Mrs.
Orbino's makin' a sauce!' I would often stay in and cook with the older
Italian women because I enjoyed it. Of course, being a tough guy, nobody
said anything about it! I just loved to cook."
You'll find authentic dishes here from Abruzzi, the mountainous Adriatic
region whose people are known to be hearty and healthy eaters. Jim and his
fiancée, Olivia, continue in this format offering a small, high quality
menu with a healthy cooking policy that's just plain delicious. I can just
hear you now. Italian? Healthy? Yes. No cream, lards, msg, ground meat
products, deep frying or microwaves, and butter only when absolutely
necessary. And the taste? Healthy cooking in the right hands can be just
as flavorful, if not more so. Here, everything that can be made fresh and
served fresh, is. You would never believe that cream and great amounts of
butter are not used when you taste the special way in which the sauces and
the cheeses are blended.
There's even a lo-carb, lo-calorie section Italian style. My first
reaction? Convince me! There was only one way to do that. And I was so
convinced that I came back for more and more. We started with Asparago con
Formaggio, fresh asparagus perfectly steamed and then baked with garlic,
herbs and lightly browned Pecarino Romano. It was a delicious appetizer
followed by the Eggplant Rollantini that tasted as if Grandma was in the
back hand rolling the eggplant herself around a blend of cheeses, spices,
spinach and baking it especially for you. I was very happy to know that
this dish can also be ordered as a full dinner.
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Olivia and Jim Horn |
The Calamari here is served in a delicate and flavorful wine sauce
"homemade, hand cut and seasoned for an irresistible flavor and
tenderness". I can't argue with that. It's served with a golden seasoned
flatbread to dip in Orsini's beautiful Bashamella sauce. I don't think
that I will ever miss deep fried calamari again after tasting this. The
Asparagus & Chorizo Pesto creation is ziti tossed in a mix of both fresh
and sun dried tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, asparagus, and
Italian chorizo in a light pesto sauce creating a spectacular and unique
flavor.
The red and green peppers in one of the authentic regional dishes, Pepe
Arrostiti, are freshly roasted everyday, served over spaghetti or
flatbread and your choice of sausage or chicken. And if you really want
a100% authentic kick thrown in, just ask for the addition of the Italian
Chili Peppers. This was a very generous serving with a magnificent taste!
A lot of Italians come here. Good sign. I noticed a colorful and enticing
looking dish being served to someone at another table. A few minutes later
I found myself leaning over and asking what it was. Chicken and broccoli
with sun dried tomatoes, garlic, and extra-virgin olive oil over a small
amount of Ziti. What did she think of it? "Mmmmmmm", was all she could say
with her eyes closed.
We tried no fewer than four of the House Special Pizza's (it's a tough job
but someone's got to do it!) and each one of them memorable. And for all
you pizza connoisseurs, this was not one of the best, but the best thin
crust. Crisp, without losing body and full of flavor. The Pizza Serafino
was one of my favorites. The moist meatballs are properly made here with a
little mint, beef, pork, veal and spices. And they really do melt in your
mouth without losing texture. Imagine these sliced on this crust with
Orsini's flavorful tomato sauce, olive oil, garlic, and a blend of cheeses
including creamy ricotta. Tasting is believing
You can tell a lot about a restaurant from its salads. Here, it tastes as
if someone had picked it fresh from the garden just a few minutes before
it was served in the delicious balsamic house vinaigrette; uncomplicated
and very satisfying.
I would have loved to review the deserts in detail based on what I had
just experienced. But it was impossible. That would have needed a fourth
visit. I did, however, sample the Cannoli. As I thought, it was just a
little bit different than others that I have had and, of course, luscious.
Enlightenment in today's world also means awareness and knowledge
regarding fresh, healthy and TASTY food. And a little of this can go a
long way in the right hands that are cautious of shortcuts in the kitchen
and insist on only using the freshest ingredients. Jim's personal motto
is, "If I wouldn't serve it to my family, I wouldn't serve it to you." You
can find Orsini's healthy cooking policy in each menu. And they mean it!
At the time of this writing, Orsini's is open for dinner only. It's closed
on Mondays and open Tuesdays through Thursdays from 5:00 to 10:00 pm,
Fridays and Saturdays until 11:00 pm, and Sundays from 4:30 until 9:00 pm.
You can see the menu on their web site: www.orsinisgrill.com. Orsini's
Grill & Pizza Kitchen is located at 4190 N. Federal Hwy., Lighthouse
Point. 954-785-9499 |
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